Mention Nepal to even well-travelled foreigners and most will associate it with mountains and cold thin ai
r. Many are surprised to learn that there is a very different Nepal in the south of the country where the dominant topographical feature is not mountain but plain. The altitude isn't much above sea level, the climate is usually hot, sometimes wet and humid, and the region is home to several large national parks with exotic jungle wildlife. I spent a couple of nights at the start of this week at one such nature reserve, Bardia National Park. This was my second visit and my late birthday present from my wife, Bev. There are quite a few companies in Nepal that offer limited safaris around Nepal's jungles but none compete with Tiger Mountain (http://www.tigermountain.com/). Tiger Mountain is pricey but offers real value for money and has the best access to the parks, allowing the greatest possibility to see some decent flora and fauna.
The central "Tiger Tops" accommodation at Bardia is the Karnali Jungle Lodge. This is accessible through a one hour flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj followed by a two hour drive. My tip though is to bypass that Lodge and go straight to the Tented Camp in the jungle itself. Surprisingly the accommodation is arguably more comfortable, you're right in the middle of it all and the views over the Karnali river from the campsite are phenomenal.
Safaris are conducted on elephant back, jeep, and by dinghy with these options offering very different perspectives on the park's wildlife. Many tourists go to the Park in the hope of spotting the elusive Royal Bengal Tiger which is not seen that often as, like many of the big cats, it is nocturnal and during the day it hides in the long elephant grass. This time around I managed to see the tiger from the top of my elephant twice but I am afraid these were too fleeting glimpses to provide you with a photo. But I did enjoy the very rare sighting of a leopard in the 
early morning light during a jeep safari; see the very grainy picture on the right. There's loads more to be seen though - the one-horned rhino, the gharial crocodile, four species of deer, the freshwater gangetic dolphin, and a vast number of bird species. I guess that on Monday we must have seen around 100 bird species ranging from flocks of bee eaters to woolly-necked storks.
r. Many are surprised to learn that there is a very different Nepal in the south of the country where the dominant topographical feature is not mountain but plain. The altitude isn't much above sea level, the climate is usually hot, sometimes wet and humid, and the region is home to several large national parks with exotic jungle wildlife. I spent a couple of nights at the start of this week at one such nature reserve, Bardia National Park. This was my second visit and my late birthday present from my wife, Bev. There are quite a few companies in Nepal that offer limited safaris around Nepal's jungles but none compete with Tiger Mountain (http://www.tigermountain.com/). Tiger Mountain is pricey but offers real value for money and has the best access to the parks, allowing the greatest possibility to see some decent flora and fauna.
The central "Tiger Tops" accommodation at Bardia is the Karnali Jungle Lodge. This is accessible through a one hour flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj followed by a two hour drive. My tip though is to bypass that Lodge and go straight to the Tented Camp in the jungle itself. Surprisingly the accommodation is arguably more comfortable, you're right in the middle of it all and the views over the Karnali river from the campsite are phenomenal.
Safaris are conducted on elephant back, jeep, and by dinghy with these options offering very different perspectives on the park's wildlife. Many tourists go to the Park in the hope of spotting the elusive Royal Bengal Tiger which is not seen that often as, like many of the big cats, it is nocturnal and during the day it hides in the long elephant grass. This time around I managed to see the tiger from the top of my elephant twice but I am afraid these were too fleeting glimpses to provide you with a photo. But I did enjoy the very rare sighting of a leopard in the 
early morning light during a jeep safari; see the very grainy picture on the right. There's loads more to be seen though - the one-horned rhino, the gharial crocodile, four species of deer, the freshwater gangetic dolphin, and a vast number of bird species. I guess that on Monday we must have seen around 100 bird species ranging from flocks of bee eaters to woolly-necked storks.I have to declare an interest in Tiger Mountain as they've given 
The Esther Benjamins Trust a lot of support over the years, including allowing us to film elephant racing for a charity fundraiser and laying on a free overnight visit for our refuge children. Moreover Tiger Mountain is contributing far more than most to wildlife conservation in Nepal and on that basis alone merits my money and yours if you are passing through. And if you visit Bardia, do leave your mobile behind. I had hoped to call someone with the message "I'm on the elephant" but there's no network connection. That's what I call relaxation.
The Esther Benjamins Trust a lot of support over the years, including allowing us to film elephant racing for a charity fundraiser and laying on a free overnight visit for our refuge children. Moreover Tiger Mountain is contributing far more than most to wildlife conservation in Nepal and on that basis alone merits my money and yours if you are passing through. And if you visit Bardia, do leave your mobile behind. I had hoped to call someone with the message "I'm on the elephant" but there's no network connection. That's what I call relaxation.
