Ever since the end of the Maoist "People's War" in April last year, tourist numbers have been rising steadily. I wonder though how many are of these visitors are aware of the trouble that continues to fester on a massive scale just beneath the surface.
Most concerning is the little-reported ethnic cleansing that has been going on in the southern "Terai" region of the country. The south is home to the native Tharu people, to Madhesi (ethnic Indian) and to the Pahari (hill tribes) people. Many of the Pahari moved from the hills to the fertile plains in the middle of the last century after the jungles were cleared and malaria was brought under control. They came to dominate the life on the Terai, often being given confiscated Tharu land in return for political favours. And they scorned the Madhesi as an inferior people. Now it seems the tables have turned with the Madhesi demanding the political representation that has been denied them for so long. In fact many of the Madhesi political representatives have even called for secession of the Terai, home to 50% of the population, from the rest of the country. Meantime no fewer than twelve armed groups are active, targeting Pahari people and fighting (and apparently winning) a turf war against Maoist activists who had been calling the shots until the start of this year. This internal conflict has been made all the easier for the Madhesi fighters with the (increasingly frustrated) People's Army holed up in UN monitored cantonment camps across the country.
In July the largest Madhesi armed group gave Paharis one week to leave the Terai - or else. So far 900 civil servants, teachers, health workers have heeded the warning and are now seeking sanctuary in the Kathmandu valley or with families back in the hills. Those who have remained in the Terai are keeping their heads down, staying away from homes and offices.
